The Etruscan walls of Volterra are the largest megalithic wall system in Europe
Volterra, with its 3,000 years of documented history, can be considered an open-air museum; it was one of Tuscany’s major city-states. A candidate for the title of Italian Capital of Culture for 2022, it was among the four non-regional capital finalists and was named the Capital of Culture of the Tuscany Region for that same year. The hill on which Volterra stands was already inhabited during the Early Iron Age; the city was an Etruscan “dodecapolis” (from this era remain the well-preserved Porta all’Arco; the Porta Diana, which still retains the blocks of its doorposts; much of the city wall, built with cyclopean blocks of local stone; the acropolis, where the foundations of two temples, various buildings, and several cisterns can be found; and various underground chambers used for burials). The Etruscan city walls are a structure unique in the world; in fact, they are the largest megalithic construction in Europe and represent the greatest architectural achievement of Etruscan civilization. They stretch over seven kilometers in length and reach enormous heights in some sections. Volterra later became a thriving Roman municipality, as evidenced by numerous sites (the semicircular theater and the amphitheater). In the Middle Ages, the city was the seat of an important episcopal lordship with jurisdiction over a large part of the region; among the medieval buildings, the Cathedral and the Palazzo dei Priori in the square of the same name stand out, along with the tower houses and the numerous fountains covered by loggias. The skyline is dominated by the imposing Medici Fortress. The structure consists of two sections connected by high defensive walls: the Rocca Vecchia, also known as the Cassero, built by the Florentines in 1342 to prevent internal rebellions within the city and later modified by Lorenzo the Magnificent; and the Rocca Nuova, known as Il Mastio, built by Lorenzo the Magnificent himself between 1472 and 1474.
Today, Volterra—the birthplace of Pope Saint Linus (successor to Peter)—is the episcopal see of the Diocese of Volterra.
The city enjoys international renown for the quarrying and crafting of alabaster and for the significance of its artistic craftsmanship, whose excellence has been handed down since Etruscan times. Volterra is home to some of the finest alabaster in the world.
In the city of Volterra itself, a 10-minute bus ride from the SIAF Campus, you can visit:
Roman Theater: The Roman theater in Volterra was unearthed in the 1950s during archaeological excavations conducted in the town of Vallebuona by Enrico Fiumi, a historian from Volterra. The monument dates back to the late 1st century B.C., and its construction was financed by the wealthy Volterran Caecina family, specifically the consuls Gaius Cecina Largo and Aulus Cecina Severus, as recorded in the theater’s dedicatory inscription, now preserved in the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum. The theater was partially carved into the natural slope of a hill, similar to Greek theaters. In fact, this part of the city was not occupied by buildings during the Etruscan period, as it contained only structures designed to stabilize the steep slope—so much so that terraces had already been constructed there around the 2nd century B.C.—making it a suitable site for the construction of a theater. The theater is currently used for performances and events during the summer.
Roman Amphitheater: In the field of archaeology, 2020 will likely be remembered as the year of the Volterra Amphitheater; the excavation campaign at this extremely important archaeological site—discovered in 2015—has resumed with vigor, yielding surprising and unexpected findings. The most striking discovery was undoubtedly the system of underground passageways, previously buried within the hill, which spectators in ancient times used—much like in modern stadiums—to reach the stands from which they watched the performances. The vaulted corridor surrounding the arena (known as the “cuniculo circumpodiale”) was also later discovered; this served the gladiators and, more generally, those who performed in the arena; it was also the point of entry for any wild beasts used in the games: however, these were not tigers or lions—animals that performed in larger venues because they were prized and difficult to transport, let alone train to fight—but more likely bears, wolves, or other animals that were easier to obtain. The excavation campaign continues thanks to funding provided by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and can be followed live.
Acropolis: Within the Enrico Fiumi Archaeological Park, visitors can explore the archaeological excavations of the Acropolis of the Etruscan city. Fiumi Park is the city’s main green space, a large urban park located on the highest plateau near the Medici Fortress. Continuous occupation of the Acropolis has been documented since the Middle Bronze Age (18th–14th centuries B.C.). In addition to the remains attesting to the earliest phases of the settlement, an interesting stratification of buildings dating from the 7th century B.C. to the 3rd century A.D. has been discovered. The area has always been occupied by places of worship frequented by the inhabitants of all the villages on the hill and served as a pilgrimage destination for people from all over central Italy. The few surviving elements from the earliest phases of occupation at this site consist of fragments of walls, the oldest of which dates to the 7th century B.C. The 7th-century construction phase corresponds to the founding of the city proper, when the inhabitants of the various villages scattered across the hill united to form a single large settlement. A large temple was built toward the end of the 6th or early 5th century B.C., but all that remains of it today are a few architectural decorations that once adorned it, now on display at the Guarnacci Museum. Another sacred building was constructed around 480 B.C.
Marmini Hypogea: The ancient necropolis, known as the “Portone” or “Marmini” necropolis, consisted mainly of tombs from the Hellenistic period, with a few more archaic ones, but it continued to be used even during the Roman period. Excavations began in the early 18th century and brought to light hundreds of tombs, the artifacts from which fueled the antiquities collecting craze of the time. Since then, the objects found in the necropolis have traveled far and wide, and we can admire examples of them in museums around the world. A large quantity of objects, unearthed during excavations carried out between 1818 and 1834 by Giusto Cinci (one of the landowners in this area), was purchased in its entirety by Grand Duke Leopold II in 1828.
Keep of the Medici Fortress: La Rocca Nuova, built by Lorenzo de’ Medici in 1474, consists of a large square stone structure whose corners end in bastions, among which the massive circular tower of the “Keep” stands out. From the very beginning, the Keep was used as a political prison: opponents of the Medici and patriots of the Risorgimento were imprisoned in its cells. Today, thanks to recent renovations by the Ministry of Justice, the Keep Tower has opened its doors to visitors.
Palazzo dei Priori: This is the oldest town hall in Tuscany. Construction of the building began at the behest of Ildebrando Pannocchieschi (Palatine Count of the Empire), and the project was entrusted to Master Riccardo da Como in 1208; the work was completed in 1257, as commemorated by an inscription in Leonine hexameter embedded in the wall of the building. The town hall was built in the city’s most important square, adjacent to the Duomo, which is also flanked by the Palazzo Pretorio, the Bishop’s Palace, Palazzo Inghirami, and other residences of the city’s most influential families. The building houses the first prototype of an internal combustion engine, invented in Volterra by Eugenio Barsanti.
Camaldolese Abbey: The Abbey is an important Camaldolese monastery, built near the city, just outside the Etruscan walls, in one of the most picturesque vantage points in the entire region, overlooking a vast horizon stretching all the way to the Gulf of La Spezia. It was founded in 1034 by the Bishop of Volterra and dedicated to the city’s patron saint; it possessed a rich heritage. Today, the building has been restored; the church and bell tower retain their medieval appearance. The part of the building reserved for the monks’ quarters and service areas was rebuilt in the 16th century.
Palazzo Incontri Viti and the Persio Flacco Theater: The theater was inaugurated in 1820. It is an example of an Italian-style theater that stands out in the Tuscan landscape because it was built within the historic Palazzo Incontri-Viti. Palazzo Incontri Viti is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful private residences in Italy, a former home to kings and princes. It houses family heirlooms and rare works of art of considerable value, including collections of ancient alabaster pieces that are truly one-of-a-kind; it also served as a film set for Luchino Visconti. The façade, attributed to the Ammannati family, is a rare and exquisite example of the transitional style between the Renaissance and the Baroque.
The Soul of Volterra: this museum complex includes the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Santa Maria Maddalena Contemporary Art Exhibition Center.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta: The earliest historical records of the cathedral date back to its consecration in 1120. Tradition holds that the baptistery, located across from the cathedral, was built on the site of a former pagan temple. However, this account is not mentioned in the earliest confirmed document, which refers to the baptismal parish church of St. John and dates back to the year 989.
Santa Maria Maddalena Contemporary Art Exhibition Center: The complex of the ancient civil hospital of Santa Maria Maddalena, first documented in the 12th century, has undergone a forward-thinking restoration aimed at highlighting the Etruscan, Roman, and medieval remains preserved within it. In the entrance hall, which opens beneath the loggia overlooking Piazza San Giovanni, one can in fact glimpse the remains of a Roman structure—perhaps a cistern—inside which a church was built during the early Christian era. Currently, the former Santa Maria Maddalena Civil Hospital houses an Exhibition Center, which also holds donations of contemporary artworks that various Volterra-based and internationally renowned Italian artists have donated over the years to the Foundation of the local Cassa di Risparmio.
Alabaster Ecomuseum and Historical Tour of the Artisan Workshops: The Alabaster Ecomuseum is an environmental museum that connects the centers of extraction, processing, and trade of alabaster—a particular type of rock that has been used in Tuscany since Etruscan times to craft cinerary urns. Dedicated to the history of alabaster processing and trade, it is housed in the 13th-century Minucci Towers, just a stone’s throw from Piazza dei Priori. The tour dedicated to alabaster craftsmanship (the most prized variety, known as “scaglione,” is found in the quarries of Volterra) concludes with a visit to the artisan workshops, which have remained unchanged over time, offering a journey through the city’s social and cultural traditions.
The Museums of Volterra:
Guarnacci Etruscan Museum: One of the oldest public museums in Europe, founded in 1761, it houses one of the world’s most impressive collections of cinerary urns, as well as the famous small votive bronze statue “Ombra della Sera” (“Shadow of the Evening”), so named by Gabriele D’Annunzio.
Museum of Sacred Art: Located inside the Church of Sant’Agostino. In addition to the church’s original furnishings, the exhibition features works from Volterra Cathedral and other churches in the diocese, including paintings, reliquaries, furnishings, and liturgical objects.
Civic Art Gallery: The Civic Art Gallery of Volterra was founded in 1905 thanks to the distinguished art historian Corrado Ricci. Since 1982, it has been housed in Palazzo Minucci-Solaini, one of Volterra’s most important buildings; attributed by local historians to Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, it is the only palace in Volterra to have preserved its Renaissance appearance almost intact. The art gallery houses many valuable works, among which Rosso Fiorentino’s *Deposition* stands out.
The Lombroso Museum: at the former Volterra Psychiatric Hospital: among its most precious treasures, the museum houses the famous graffiti by Oreste Nannetti, a patient at the hospital. The work, the most significant example of Italian Art Brut recognized worldwide, is a seven-meter-long depiction of cuneiform script, letters, and drawings. The artist, who described himself as an “astronautical engineer of the mental system,” claimed he had been tasked with transcribing messages from outer space.
Near Volterra, within a 30- to 45-minute bus ride, you’ll find:
Castelvecchio Ruins: The ruins of the fortified city of Castelvecchio are now nestled in dense forests of Turkey oaks, oaks, and holm oaks. Part of the castle’s walls, dating back to 1208, still stand, and the citadel remains as it was in the 13th century. The castle’s feudal characteristics are evident, featuring a powerful square keep with a tower defending the main gate. There is also a church with frescoes dating back to 1275, scattered houses, two mills, and a large cistern for rainwater.
Salina Locatelli: A journey into the world of salt with guided tours of the former State Salt Works, the site where Italy’s purest salt is produced: Volterra salt. The Salina Locatelli tour includes:
- A visit to the salt cascade in the pavilion designed by Pier Luigi Nervi
- A visit to the salt museum and video screenings
- A visit to the Salt Emporium
- Art Space: salt becomes a material to be shaped, featuring experimental works by contemporary artists.
Montecatini Mine and Torre Belforti: The Montecatini Val di Cecina mine is an old copper mine located about one kilometer from the historic center. It remained in operation until 1907 and was the largest copper mine in Europe during the 19th century. The Montecatini company, one of Europe’s leading industrial firms, was founded here and later merged into the famous Montedison. For visitors, it offers a fascinating journey to learn about mining techniques and the stories of the miners. Today, visitors can admire the 19th-century mining structures, the former ore-washing plants, sections of the tunnels accessible on foot, and the former management offices. The Belforti Tower was built during the 1300s by the noble Belforti family. Constructed on the site of ancient fortifications, it is open to visitors today and offers a view from its summit that stretches from the hills to the sea.
Rocca Sillana: Among the many monuments and settlements dotting the hilltops of the Val di Cecina, the 12th-century Rocca Sillana castle is one of the most significant and was one of the largest settlements in the area, which was densely populated during the Middle Ages.
Geothermal Museum: In the nearby “Valle del Diavolo” (Devil’s Valley), characterized by boric acid-bearing geysers—famous even in Dante’s time (who drew inspiration from this landscape to describe Hell in the “Divine Comedy”)—lies the Geothermal Museum, founded in the late 1950s. The exhibition tells the story of geothermal energy, illustrating exploration and drilling techniques through models. It is a multimedia museum particularly well-suited for understanding the geothermal phenomenon and its industrial developments; this tour also includes the Biancane and Fumaroles Park. Visitors can also see a demonstration geyser in action during a guided tour.
The world’s first geothermal power plant was built in Larderello
Querceto Castle: The current castle was built in the 16th century A.D. The original medieval structure was looted, burned, and destroyed at the end of the 15th century, during one of the many wars fought at that time, along with the houses surrounding it. The castle walls were almost completely dismantled, leaving standing only the section overlooking the valley—still visible today—which partially supports the structure built later.
Village of Montegemoli: This visit is part of the Dante-themed itineraries promoted by Siaf through educational and experiential activities, as Bella degli Abati, the mother of Dante Alighieri, was born in this village.
“Sculpture Intervention” Itinerary: Nature Meets Art: As you travel through the countryside surrounding Volterra, your gaze is drawn to large geometric sculptures fully immersed in the landscape, outside the usual museum settings: circles, ovals, triangles, and lines stand alone amidst the lush or barren lands—depending on the season—blending perfectly with their surroundings as they echo the earth’s colors, ranging from the lightest brown to the darkest, all the way to gray. A tribute to the environment and to one’s origins, created by one of the most renowned contemporary artists—or rather, sculptors: Mauro Staccioli.